The heating and cooling systems are sized according to their tonnage. One (1) ton equals 12,000 BTU/H. Residential systems can range from 1 to 5 tons.
Contrary to popular belief there, is no rule of thumb for sizing a system to a home. Depending upon the construction of your home, one (1) ton of air conditioning can cool anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet of home. The only way to ensure the size of the system you purchase will be large enough to cool your home, but not any larger than you need, is to have your home’s individual heating and cooling needs evaluated by a licensed professional.
The S.E.E.R. (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) is the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity. For example, a 3-ton unit may have an S.E.E.R. efficiency rating of 13, 14, or 15. The higher the S.E.E.R., the more efficient the system will be. The S.E.E.R. rating of any given unit can range anywhere from 13 to 17.
The most important thing you can do is clean and replace your filters frequently. Also, a system heats and cools more evenly when the blower is in the “on” position. The blower provides constant air movement throughout the home and allows for better filtration. Finally, shades, drapes, shutters, or screens should be installed on windows that are exposed to extreme sunlight.
No. A larger system with more capacity delivers less comfort and costs more to operate. An air conditioner is at its least efficient when first turning on. A system with too much capacity will run in numerous short cycles, turning on and off repeatedly, therefore causing it to be less efficient. Also keep in mind that an air conditioner only removes humidity when it’s running, so a system with shorter run cycles doesn’t remove humidity from the air very well.
There is no exact answer for how long your system should run during each cycle. The average air conditioner is sized to remove the heat from your home as fast as it comes in, on a 110° day. Therefore, ideally, on a 110° day the system should be able to keep up with the incoming heat, but not gain on it and be able to turn off. The cooler it is below 110°, the more the system will cycle on and off.
Every time your system starts up, it will use a lot of electricity and not produce much cooling. Usually a system that is too small to cool the home is more economical to run but delivers less comfort. Even though it runs nonstop, it will usually consume less power than a larger system that cycles on and off. As a rule of thumb, a unit that is either on or off is less expensive than one cycling on and off.
The air temperature your system produces depends on the temperature of the air going into the system. Generally, the air produced should be 18°–20° below what enters the system. So if the air entering the system is 80°, the air exiting should be about 60°–62°. However, that only works on a system that has been running at least 15 minutes on a warm, dry day with a home that is about 80° inside. On a mild day, with an indoor temperature in the low 70s, or during humid conditions, the air coming out may only be 15°–17° cooler than what enters.
Obviously the time of year becomes a big factor for desired temperature settings. In the summer months, the average temperature setting is 78°–80°, in the winter 70°–72° seems to be the most common setting. Remember, when leaving your house, try to avoid drastic temperature changes. Do not set your temperature back more than 5°; this will cause your unit to work harder to achieve the desired temperature setting.
Different programmable thermostats offer many different features. However, because they are electronic, they are all more accurate and efficient than thermostats that contain mercury. With programmable thermostats, you can control the temperature in your home at different times of day without ever touching your thermostat. Because everything is automatic, you will never forget to change the setting on your own.
For optimum efficiency and filtration, we recommend that you replace your disposable filters at least once a month. If you have washable filters, they should be cleaned once a month.
The most important maintenance you can do is to change your filters regularly. Ground mounted outdoor units need to be kept clear of debris, clutter, weeds, or landscaping that can grow too close and reduce the airflow to the unit. Also, keep pets away from the unit because pet urine can cause expensive damage. Use caution with a weed trimmer around the unit to prevent damaging control wiring. Any additional maintenance should only be performed by qualified personnel.
You should have maintenance done on your air conditioning system twice a year. This not only ensures maximum efficiency, it enables us to foresee any possible problems that may occur in the near future. Our Comfort Assurance Program (CAP) plan is specifically designed to keep your air conditioning system running at its peak efficiency year-round.
Due to the many different makes, models, and customer needs, price is an issue that can only be solved by doing a thorough evaluation of your home and existing equipment. There is no charge for an in-house replacement proposal.
Yes, they can actually play a big part in your complete home comfort. We have a variety of whole-house filtration devices. Some electronic air cleaners can even remove dust particles and pollen as small as .10 micron.
No. Closing the registers will decrease the systems’ airflow and efficiency. Every system is designed to cool a certain number of square feet. By closing registers and doors in certain rooms, you disrupt the airflow and cause your air conditioning system to work harder to distribute air to other areas of your home. Your system will work harder to cool less space, making it cycle more and become less efficient.
During the heating season, my heat pump delivers warm air, but not hot air, and will operate for long periods of time. Is that normal?
Yes, this is normal. A heat pump generally produces air that is 80°, which is considered warm, and will heat the house evenly. However, 80° may feel cool to your hand, which is usually closer to 90°.
During the heating season, my heat pump makes a “whooshing” sound, and I feel cool air coming from the supply registers. Is that normal?
Yes. During the cold weather months, frost will accumulate on the outdoor coil. This will cause the heat pump to go into a defrost cycle anywhere from 1–10 minutes, depending on the amount of ice on the coil. The system will return to the heating mode once the ice is gone.
How do I know if my A/C unit is big enough?
A modern HVAC system typically lasts between 11 to 15 years, but some systems might last 20 years or more. Your system’s lifespan can vary greatly because it depends on factors like usage, maintenance, and the quality of the system. Regular maintenance, such as cleaning filters and scheduling annual inspections, can extend the lifespan. However, components like compressors and heat exchangers may wear out earlier. Keeping your system well-maintained helps it perform efficiently for as long as possible.
In most cases, it’s considered best to set your thermostat fan to “auto.” When set to auto, the fan runs only when the heating or cooling system is actively operating. This is an energy-saving feature. The auto setting can also work to the advantage of allergy or asthma sufferers because it allows for constant filtration and, therefore, better air quality. Keeping the fan on constantly can result in higher energy bills without providing any additional benefits in comfort. Auto mode allows for better energy efficiency and more consistent temperature control.
One of the most common issues is dirty filters, which can reduce airflow. Refrigerant leaks are another common problem that affects cooling performance. Other problems we often encounter include problems with the furnace relay switch or electrical components, malfunctioning thermostats, blocked vents, and clogged drain lines. The good news is that regular maintenance and inspections can help catch these issues early and prevent costly repairs.
The air filters are often the most overlooked part of an HVAC system. Dirty filters can reduce airflow, strain the system, and cause it to work harder, leading to inefficiency and possible breakdowns. Regularly checking and replacing filters can greatly improve your system’s performance and indoor air quality.
High-efficiency HVAC systems are designed with advanced technology to use less energy while providing the same level of comfort. Features such as variable-speed motors, higher SEER ratings, and improved insulation make these systems more energy-efficient. A high-efficiency system doesn’t just save on energy bills, but also reduces the system’s environmental impact.
A SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating of 16 or higher is generally considered to be high-efficiency for HVAC systems. Systems with higher SEER ratings use less energy to provide the same cooling power, leading to lower energy consumption and reduced costs. The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the system.
Poor HVAC efficiency can be caused by various factors, including dirty filters, blocked air ducts, low refrigerant levels, or malfunctioning components. Dirty or leaky coils can lead to system breakdowns because the particles and debris reduce the system’s ability to absorb or release heat effectively, causing the system to overheat or work harder than necessary. This strain can result in premature wear and damage to vital components. Inadequate insulation and poor system sizing can also contribute to inefficiency. Regular maintenance and addressing issues promptly can help maintain optimal efficiency and prevent costly repairs. Most of these common contributors are easy for our skilled team to tackle and prevent.
Optimal airflow can be achieved by regularly changing the air filters and ensuring that vents are open and unblocked. Scheduling routine maintenance, such as cleaning coils and checking the ductwork for leaks, can also boost airflow. Additionally, sealing gaps or leaks in windows, doors, and ducts will help maintain air pressure and prevent your system from overworking.
